Two weeks in Laos – The north

Laos is a very good choice of destination if you want to discover another culture in a country where nature is still omnipresent. Moreover, the locals are very nice and make you feel welcome in their country. In short, it is a country to visit as long as mass tourism has not yet invaded and changed it.

TIPS

* Move around : The best way to get around is by bus, and mainly by night bus. They are cheap, comfortable and allow you to save a night in a hotel. In addition, night buses are more reliable than regular buses. Generally speaking, it is not necessary to book buses in advance, but be careful on holidays such as the full moon. In these cases, the buses are full. If you know exactly when you will leave a place, I advise you to book the next bus as soon as you arrive at the station.

It is also possible to take the plane because there are several airports in Laos. The prices are quite high though if you take them in last minute, and then let's think about our ecological footprint.

* Money : The currency in Laos is the Kip. There are ATMs everywhere, having no cash on me at the arrival it was not a problem. However, I advise to withdraw a lot at once to avoid bad surprises.

* Visa on arrival : Laos requires a visa to enter the country. You can get it when you arrive directly at the airport. They ask you for passport photos but don't panic if you don't have any with you, they give it to you anyway. It is mandatory to pay the visa in cash, if you don't have any with you they let you go to the ATM in the airport to withdraw money.

* Security : Laos is a safe country in my opinion. Not once did I feel unsafe. The locals are friendly and always willing to help you. They are not yet fed up with tourists so they don't bother you for money and won't try to rob you (there are always exceptions of course). What you have to watch out for is corruption in the police. Indeed, a policeman can stop you and ask you to pay a fine without any reason. The advice we received (and applied) is not to stop if it is one or two policemen. A real police control will be accompanied by cars with flashing lights etc, you will see the difference. I know it's not easy but really don't stop. If you are ever stopped, you must have the original motorcycle papers (always ask for them when renting the bike) and your international license. And above all, don't be afraid. Say no to pay them and show that it will be no, they will let you go (from experience). Oh yes and pretending not to speak English and playing horrible music loudly would also work but we didn't have the opportunity to test it.

* Dress code : Laos is a very religious country. It goes without saying that it is necessary to respect it. To visit a temple you must cover your legs and shoulders. In general, it is better to be covered because it is better perceived by the population and more respectful. Nevertheless, given the heat, shorts are more pleasant, so always have something to cover yourself with in order to visit the temples and not to pay each time to receive an outfit.

* Phone : I advise to buy 4G and a SIM card as soon as you arrive. It's really more convenient because there is not much wifi and it's really cheap. I bought it directly at the airport but you can find it easily in big cities.

ITINÉRAIRE

I advise to go to Laos for 3 weeks. We did it in 2 and it was a bit of a race. Moreover, the north is worth visiting, more than the south in my opinion. My itinerary allows me to visit the most famous places but if I had to do it again I would not go to Champassak because I was disappointed. My advice is to visit the north mainly, and if you have time to go to the south. Instead of Champassak you can do the Boloven plateau.

Vientiane – Vangvieng – Louangphrabang – Thakhek – 4000 îles – Champassak

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VENTIANE

Vientiane is the capital of Laos. It is a city worth visiting for two days. Visit the city on foot or take a local tuktuk which is very cheap.

* Accommodation : We stayed at Barn1920s Hostel. It's a very nice place, located in the center. The rooms are not mixed (like everywhere in Laos), comfortable, clean and have curtains (Life change). Moreover, we can use the kitchen and the ingredients to make a breakfast (bananas, eggs, bread, jam etc).

* Activities : There are two major temples in Vientiane, Pha That Luang and Wat Si Saket. The first one is the famous completely golden temple (only the top part is really gold) and the second one is the oldest temple in Vientiane, built in 1818. Most of the temples are paid for by tourists, so always have some cash on you.

Then you have the Patuxai Arch which is located on a long boulevard. You can immediately see the French influence in the construction because it looks like the Arc de Triomphe in Paris. You can go up there to see a view of all Vientiane.

Finally, at sunset, take a walk along the Mekong River and wander through the market. You will find everything.

VANGVIENG

Vangvieng is mostly known for tubing (which I explain just below), but for nature lovers you will be delighted to stop there. I recommend to stay there for two days. Moreover, Vangvieng is on the road between Vientiane and Louangphrabang, so it won't be a big detour in your itinerary.

* Accommodation : We stayed at Nana Hostel. I don't recommend this place for several reasons. The rooms were very small, it was very noisy because people are always drunk. Also, there is no atmosphere because when people come back from tubing, they stay in small groups, hitting on each other in the pool. Honestly it was not cheerful at all, but it depends on your taste of course.

* Activities : Tubing is an activity that consists in letting yourself sail on a buoy in the river while making 3 stops to drink and party. It's quite funny to do one day with friends. But it is an activity of debauchery, people finish drunk and after the 1st stop we were a little bit tired of it. So nice to do in group but it is not a must in my opinion.

However Vangvieng is not only that. The nature and landscapes are beautiful. Rent bikes, scooters or quads to visit the surroundings. Walk through the fields, climb to the top of Pha Ngern mountain, the view from the top is incredible. You can also take a hot air balloon ride for a very reasonable price.

LOUANGPHRABANG

I loved this city. The city center is classified as a Unesco heritage site and we feel a big French influence in the architecture. It is beautiful, clean, in short we would stay there all the stay. So I advise to stay there 4 days, or more.

* Accommodation : We slept at the Sunrise Riverside Pool Hostel. It's a very good hostel, very well located, bathroom in the room, pool and breakfast included.

* Restaurants : If you go to Louangphrabang you will inevitably hear about the Utopia restaurant. And when you go there, you understand why. It's just beautiful. During the day you can sit in couches and admire the view on the river, in the evening the place is illuminated by loupiotes. The food is good, with excellent vegetarian options. In short, you have to go there.

If you're just coming to Laos for a few weeks you probably won't be craving French food, but if like me it's been more than a month since you've touched a piece of cheese, the Banneton Café & Bakery will make you happy. It's a café opened by a Frenchman. You'll find real baguette, cheese, charcuterie. There is even a shop inside to buy imported products.

We also ate at The Silk Road restaurant, it was good but some dishes were very small for the price. On the other hand the setting is great.

* Activities : There is a lot to do in Louangphrabang. For a day in the center, you can start your day at 5:30 am by attending the offering to the monks. Personally I didn't like it because the tourists spoil this religious procession. They touch the monks, put the flash to take pictures, make offerings just for a picture when it is asked not to do so unless they have a deep personal reason. Then you can visit Wat Xieng Thong temple which is beautiful. Don't forget to be properly dressed. Mount Phousy is also an attraction in the city. We went at sunset but we were definitely not the only ones. I think it is better to go at sunrise. Finally end your day with the night market, and eat there, it's good and cheap.

One thing to visit is the Kuang Si Falls. They are incredible waterfalls, they are part of my top 3 of my whole trip. You have the possibility to swim there, the water is very very cold though. Do not hesitate to go up to the top to have an incredible view.

Spend a day visiting the blue lagoons. The blue lagoons are natural pools, you have to go early and on weekdays to avoid being with the local crowd.

We spent a day in a collective and social farm. It's a one day activity where they explain you how rice is produced from A to Z, where they make you taste all the local rice preparations and they also initiate you to the art of making shapes with bamboo. A perfect day, which I recommend to everyone. Wear shorts because you will be filled with mud.

And finally, you can do a trek in the surroundings of the city. This is a full day trek, with transportation picking you up and taking you to the starting point. Our trek was quite hard and challenging but the view at the top was beautiful and worth it. A meal was also provided in a homestay in the middle of the mountains. We were just 4 with the guide. We paid 23€/pers all included. I couldn't tell the company or the mountain we did but in the main street you have several small tourist offices. Negotiate the prices.